Nordkapp
We were lucky to see the arctic light in Finland and we were only a few days far from another beautiful scenery that’s Nordkapp. The feeling that we are closer and closer to the end of the world got stronger by the minute. Nature changes radically as one crosses the border. The woods disappear remaining the bare, sheer cliffs and water, the fjords come along. What an experience for the human eyes to see as the see intertwines with cliffs, mountains. They make a huge couple. The presence of sheer power is sensible in the air. We had to cycle in a beautiful place like this till Nordkapp. The northernmost point of Europe is located on a big island named Mageroya and an almost 7 kms long tunnel has to be crossed in order to reach the island.
The deepest point of this tunnel is 212 m under sea level. 3,5 kms take you down, than the remaining 3,5 kms is upward. It was a great feeling. After the tunnel only 40 kms parted us from our goal to reach the northernmost point of Europe. We travelled this last portion without luggage, as we had even two accomodation possibilities on the island. This last part of the road was difficult even without bags as we had to cycle upward headwind almost all the way. On the last 500 meters a sudden cross-wind literally swept us off the road.
In the next phase one’s eyes meets the Arctic Ocean already. I just can’t put into words what I felt then. That has to be seen and sensed. Tourists came by bus, they took some pictures then they shortly hopped back on the bus. The two of us were just sitting there smiling. And I know that those tourists weren’t even close to the feelings that encountered us. We travelled 10.000 kms when we finally reached Nordkapp. Probably anything else cannot be appreciated better. It lasts for a lifetime.
Arnt Egil’s friendly home
We spent one week on the island of Nordkapp, 2 nights at Christian Vendler’s place, 5 nights in Arnt Egil’s friendly snug. We met them both on couchsurfing. In Arnt’s home we met Alan Bezard, a French wayfarer. Alain is presently 56 years old and since 23 years of age he travels around the world as a wayfarer.
His last adventure happened this winter, when he went from Helsinki to Nordkapp by foot within 4 months. Who wants to know more about this journey, a detailed description is found on the next site:
http://helsinkinordkapp.blogspot.com/
Arnt and Alan are two amazing guys. We ate, drank, talked, relaxed and entertained ourselves. Originally we requested one night from Arnt, but he said every night that we should perhaps stay one more day. He meant it and we gladly stayed. We didn’t feel like burden.
Weather was favourable – lull and sunshine. We asked Arnt to take us by car to the northernmost point. He gave us the carkeys and we were free to go.
Yes, we had the luck to go to Nordkapp twice.
That day in the afternoon we went out fishing to the gulf. Előd threw the fishing-rod and he caught a fish right away.
In this excitement I wanted to take a picture but as I was in a hurry I let one paddle and it went away from the boat. It was funny. We were staring at the paddle while it got farther and farther. At last we got it back and continued fishing the result being 6 fish in one hour. It’s not bad, fishing is pleasure this way. The only disadvantage of the fishing was that we got frozen, but in the small hut we got warm quickly. We ate the fish for lunch before starting. I felt like home in the hovel thanks to Arnt and Alan. These two fellows could be beautiful positive examples of humanity. I have learnt a lot from them.
Headed to South
When we left Nordkapp island, the next target was the town of Tromso where we were waited for. The distance between the two points is approximately 600 km. Weather was on our side, we cycled nicely headwind toward south, in the meanwhile we collected beer cans so that we can make a little money. Thanks to Arnold we even had the possibility to try the recumbent bicycle.
Everything was good till the town of Storslett. There we encountered winter. Meterologists forecast for the next 4-5 days a large quantity of moisture and fall in temperature and snowing as result of the latter. It was a problem that we could no more use the tent, so we had to look for other accomodation. We were sitting in front of a grocery when a guy came, stopped, greeted us friendly and after a short conversation Előd asked him whether he could gave us lodging for that night. He was thinking, and excused himself asking us to let him go and buy things and meanwhile he comes up with a decision. The end of thinking was accomodation and going out. We got a whole appartment for the night. And the result of pub-crawling was hangover.
We were grateful for the hospitality shown towards us.
Thanks: Stein A. Blix Johnsen, Tommy Henriksa, Sverker Bohlin
10th of October
Because of snowing we decided no to go to Tromsö, but to set off for South to the town of Narvik where we had CS accomodation. After leaving the town of Storslett, we cycled all day in rain in approximately 2-3 degrees. We were moving on mostly on sea level, one hundred
meters above sealevel was snowing.
Through the evening we reached the town of Olderdale wet and frozen. The tent didn’t even come into question. We knocked on the door of some houses and asked whether we could stay for the night. The positive answer came after the fourth knocking. An elderly couple took us in, and they didn’t offer us the garage, but a place in the house. They gave us hot tea, supper and breakfast. When Agnor Matthiasen opened the door, her first sentence was that ‘You must be frozen’. They were very-very kind and when we started the next day, anxiety was sensible on their face concerning our fate. We promised to take care of ourselves and to keep them posted.
11th of October
We set off. We knew there was more precipitation to come. But it was not rain anymore but snow. It was snowing all day long. Christmas spirit was there with us.
We were indirectly part of a small incident, two trucks clashed behind us. Only the trucks were injured.
We arrived to the place called Skibotn our bikes being halfway frozen. We went in a store to hand down the beer cans, while we were inside the bikes got totally frozen. Front, rear brake, switch, everything.
In front of the store there was the police. Lights were on, so we went there to take our chances. We didn’t have any luck as although the lights were on, no one was there. Or else it is customery in Norway that lights are on everywhere. We mostly pulled the bikes from the police station to the next house. We knocked on the door. An old man came and we told him what we wanted. He asked us to wait a minute then he closed the door. Shortly the door opened again, this time a lady came, she greeted us and didn’t wait for our reply, she only stated that we must be frozen, and invited us in. They offered us hot chocolate and we told them who we were, where we came from and what our goal was. It turned out that we were invited to the home of a recently retired police superintendent. That night we got accomodated in the house again. The next day we showed them pictures and told them other stories about us. Before leaving they packed food for us. The lady looked anxious when we parted. They reassured us that weather was going to be favourable and that we would have tail-wind.
12th of October
So we din’t get any tail-wind, rather headwind which made our cheeks go red. Precipitation was less, sometimes as snow, other times as rain. We spent the night in a small workshop.
13th of October
Most of the precipitation went away, the sky was getting clear towards the evening.
There wasn’t headwind, so we first cycled 80 kms a day after a long time. Although it wasn’t raining and there was no headwind, cold sips out the power from the body.
We found a wallet with all kind of personal documents and a small amount of money, and while debating how to take it back to the owner a policecar came, we flagged it down and gave the wallet to the polce officers happily and pleased.
We spent the night in the town of Setermoen, in the headquarters of the BARDU Sport Association. It was the president of the club who offered us this possibility – this being the result of knocking on doors – and we accepted it gladly.
About weather
Weather has been very-very favourable till now.What we lived through in the past few days should have been felt already in Finland. Till now wheather pleased us, now it seems as it would say that for a while I’d be harsh, then good days are to come again. An we know it will be better. Weather is not people’s enemy, they can prepare themselves against it. I do not see anything bad in cycling in snowfall. We enjoyed it, and I think we’ll enjoy it further. We get dressed up and go. Sometimes we are cold, then we warm up. That’s it.
About asking and hospitality
Asking and giving is not a shame. It is not a bad thing that we ask for people’s help. It is not easy to ask and give, but if one lives with his/her chances, he/she will be more by it. I often think about what the man who didn’t invite us in such a weather felt, and what the host felt who took us in for a night. Probably I’m naive but I think there’s a chance that next time when the certain fellow is asked for such a favour he/she will not refuse the request.
